The treatment consists of 4 phases that turn it into a protocol for the elimination and control of hyperpigmentation rather than a one-time remedy. The cosmelan® peel visibly removes and attenuates dark spots like a peel, but it most importantly works by inhibiting melanin production which is responsible for the dark pigmentation seen on the skin as a response to UV exposure, hormones, ageing, and acne. By inhibiting a specific type of enzyme e.g. tyrosinase that is directly involved in the production of melanin, Cosmelan can reduce melanin production and the discoloration it causes in the skin and help prevent their recurrence. Free of hydroquinone, a cosmelan peel consists of ingredients well-known to inhibit tyrosinase, the natural enzyme that promotes pigmentation–hence their use for treating hyperpigmentation, including melasma, post inflammatory hyperpigmentation and sunspots.

Phase 1: Intense depigmentation

Treatment begins with the in-office application of the cosmelan 1 mask by Dr Hudson which produces intensive removal of the melanin deposits within the skin. The Cosmelan 1 mask is worn for a period of between 8 to 12 hours. Dr. Hudson determines the duration depending on the patient’s skin tone and the severity of the hyperpigmentation present. Once the designated amount of time has elapsed, the Cosmelan mask is easily removed at home by the patient using a gentle facial cleanser. A follow-up appointment will be made in four weeks’ time so Dr. Hudson can assess the progress.

Phases 2, 3 and 4: Depigmentation, regulation, and control

Following application of the Cosmelan 1 mask, patients adhere to a home care regimen consisting of the use of depigmenting and anti-aging skincare products. Which are provided to the client before they leave the office. This is part of the depigmentation process and serves to prevent the recurrence of hyperpigmentation and spots. The protocol includes:

• Cosmelan 2 cream: facial cream for removing and/or reducing spots of melanic origin.
• Melan recovery: a soothing and calming skin balm that rebalances and restores the skin barrier.
• Melan 130 pigment control: a tinted facial sunscreen with high solar protection which helps regulate melanin synthesis and keeps the skin hydrated and protected.

The Cosmelan 2 cream is a depigmenting cream that contains a blend of brightening ingredients, including kojic acid, azelaic acid, vitamin C, retinoids, and hydroquinone. The ingredients in Cosmelan 2 can be very irritating, particularly if you have sensitive skin. If the cream does cause severe skin irritation, it should be discontinued for several days until it resolves completely. Failure to comply with these instructions can cause increased skin irritation and hyperpigmentation. Since the Cosmelan depigmentation protocol aims to lessen and eliminate hyperpigmentation, it is counter-productive to continue using Cosmelan 2 if your skin is irritated.

To achieve and maintain the best cosmetic results, it is important that both during and after the Cosmelan peel, patients limit sun exposure and use proper sun protection. Melanocytes, the skin cells responsible for producing melanin (pigment), are triggered by UV exposure. Sun exposure to the treatment area can worsen the appearance of brown spots even after the Cosmelan treatment is completed. Dr. Hudson recommends the use of a broad-spectrum sunscreen with a minimum SPF of 50, which should be reapplied every ninety minutes. A chemical-based sunscreen should be applied underneath a mineral sunscreen for the best sun protection. Chemical sunscreens contain active ingredients such as avobenzone, and mineral sunscreens contain zinc oxide or titanium dioxide.